By Vivien Nguyen
For more than a decade, Balenciaga has been a cultural behemoth – a feat largely made possible under the direction of Demna who’s exaggerated silhouettes, viral accessories and confrontational colour palettes consistently provoked conversation and generational hype. Though not without controversy, Balenciaga has become almost inseparable to Demna’s vision, making his departure in 2025 feel like the closing of a defining chapter.
Stepping into that space, Pierpaolo Picciolli now presents his second womenswear outing for the house that feels assured, yet markedly different in temperament–a Balenciaga that leans less toward internet spectacle and more towards something quietly traditional, at times even resembling the sort of wardrobe one might associate with a sharply dressed grandmother.
Titled ClairOsbcur, the collection draws on the tension between light and darkness that exists within human nature. Contrast and juxtaposition act as guiding principles throughout. The opening look immediately establishes this dialogue: an oversized, bubble-shaped leather jacket paired with a slim ankle-skimming skirt creating a top-heavy silhouette, one that becomes a recurring signature. Elsewhere, giant collars large enough to frame the face and cascade across the shoulders emerge as a defining motif. True to the title, the palette largely favours monotone restraint, though earthy red tones and vibrant jewel colours provide a welcome reprieve from the shadows.
The collection performs strongest in its outerwear where Piccioli demonstrates a particularly deft hand. Coats featuring doubled, overlapped collars in contrasting teal and red, nylon and fur, denim and wool create moments of visual tension. The most striking combination arrives as a grey tweed ensemble, its leather lined collar styled with a stark white inner shirt. The offering feels richly textured without ever tipping into excess, balancing both timelessness with something distinctly contemporary. Elsewhere, a series of hooded coats deliver a more dramatic flourish, their sculptural forms evoking an otherworldly universe where dystopian futurism outerwear and old-world tailoring run rampant.
What ultimately emerges is a curious but intriguing shift in tone. While Balenciaga’s audience has increasingly skewed younger in recent years, Picciolo’s interpretation introduces a wardrobe that feels more academic, more heritage-minded. Here, silhouettes and textures that might once have belonged to an older generation are now reframed for a contemporary one. The result reads almost like a meeting point between past and present: a touch of grandfatherly tailoring, reimagined for 2026 with an unmistakable edge of seduction. This shift is compelling, but an undeniable tension emerges. This current interpretation of Balenciaga feels at odds with an audience that was built on relationships with rappers, reality TV royalty and the Internet’s favourite It Girls. It could work for some–the more sophisticated tone can signal a wardrobe that has grown up with its audience. For some, this will be alienating. Regardless, it is clear that the house no longer occupies the same cultural space. For better or for worse? Only time can tell.
