By Allanah Davies
The last time Ralph Lauren appeared on the Men’s Milan fashion week calendar was 2002–a moment when the leisure class and the idea of American identity were read very differently on the international stage. Today, as perceptions of the American upper class have grown increasingly sour, Ralph Lauren–the brand most synonymous with dressing men who embody the American Dream–returns to the runway. Not to costume the now villanised man living in inherited ease and beige quarter-zips, but to explore “the different ways men live, their individuality and their personal style,” a sentiment printed on every guest’s seat in the Via San Barnaba headquarters.
This season, a palette of earthy purples, greens and oranges painted the opening looks from Lauren’s ‘Polo’ line, and slowly de-saturated towards sophisticated greys and navy’s as the ‘Purple Label’ luxury line was presented. As a comeback collection in menswear, Lauren reminds us of these diverse worlds the Ralph Lauren man occupies, and indeed, reintroduces swagger back to the brand after the suite of beige crepe and linen, quiet luxury yacht-wear that filled last year’s presentations. There was nothing quiet or beige about this season: Lauren splashed together oversized camo-streetwear, Western cowboy hats, corporate suiting and even iconic Polo model Tyson Beckford in a teddy bear coat. As these American archetypal men moved in sequence–NYC Wall Street types in head to toe grey carrying briefcases, hiking enthusiasts leaving for camping trips in camo caps and geometric fleece, and Ivy league students decked out in knitted merchandise and tote bags–Lauren redefines his parameters the American leisure class. As the Ralph Lauren ‘look’ may have been co-opted by a more corrupt ruling class, this season opens the door for youth, creativity and freedom to represent America on the Milanese runway.
This youthful coolness is displayed most clearly in the opening looks, the first of which features exaggerated camo pants, paired with the ever so synonymous purple and orange pullover; the kind one inherits from their father; the model’s waist, casually cinched with a puffer jacket, creates a stylized silhouette without trying too hard. The wearer walks with a certain kind of swagger that shows us he’s on the move–whether to a camping trip or simply walking through NYC, that’s your own prerogative.
If the first half of the collection presented Lauren’s playful approach, the latter illustrated the Ralph Lauren man cleaned up for life back in the city–always keeping his cool, of course. Here, sophisticated tuxedos became the uniform of choice, often accompanied by a touch of “personal style.” Outworked across an embellished biker jacket and yankees cap, or a knitted or teddy bear sweater are worn over the suit to keep the wearer warm and cozy in the formal environments. This new Ralph Lauren man isn’t afraid of colour or showing his own personality even when uniform is preferred and luxury is quietened.
Ralph Lauren holds the unique power to redefine American class on the international stage, and this was the perfect time, and the perfect way, to do so.
